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Water is the lifeblood of any permaculture system, and how you capture, store, and distribute it determines whether your design thrives or struggles. You're being tested on your understanding of the water cycle within designed landscapes—how water moves from rainfall to soil to plants to atmosphere, and how human interventions can either work with or against these natural flows. The methods in this guide demonstrate core permaculture principles: catching and storing energy, obtaining a yield, using edges and valuing the marginal.
These techniques aren't isolated tricks; they form an integrated approach to hydrological management that mimics natural ecosystems. When you encounter exam questions about water conservation, you're really being asked to show how different methods address specific challenges—whether that's infiltration, evaporation reduction, runoff management, or demand reduction. Don't just memorize what each method does—know which problem it solves and how it connects to whole-system design.
These methods focus on the first rule of water-wise design: catch water at its highest point and slow its journey across your landscape. The goal is to transform rainfall from a drainage problem into a stored resource.
Compare: Rainwater harvesting vs. greywater systems—both provide alternative irrigation sources, but rainwater is cleaner and requires less treatment while greywater offers consistent year-round supply regardless of rainfall. For design questions, consider which fits your climate and household size.
These techniques physically reshape land to control water movement. The underlying principle is using gravity and topography to slow, spread, and sink water into the soil rather than letting it run off.
Compare: Swales vs. keyline design—both work with contours, but swales are passive water-holding features while keyline actively redistributes water across the landscape. Swales work best on gentle slopes; keyline excels on larger properties with varied topography.
These methods work at the soil surface to reduce evaporation and improve the soil's ability to hold water. The principle here is that healthy, covered soil acts like a sponge, while bare soil loses moisture rapidly.
Compare: Mulching vs. cover cropping—both protect soil and retain moisture, but mulching is passive and immediate while cover crops are active, living systems that also build soil biology. Cover crops require planning around growing seasons; mulch can be applied anytime.
These methods focus on getting water to plants with minimal waste. The principle is precision—delivering water exactly where and when plants need it, reducing the losses that occur with broadcast irrigation.
Compare: Drip irrigation vs. mulching—both reduce evaporation, but drip controls input while mulching reduces output. The most effective systems combine both: drip lines under mulch deliver water with almost zero surface loss.
These methods reduce water demand from the start by choosing appropriate plants and designs. The principle is matching your system to your climate rather than fighting against it.
Compare: Drought-resistant plants vs. water-efficient landscaping—plant selection is one tool; landscaping is the whole design strategy. You can have drought-resistant plants in a poorly designed landscape that still wastes water, but water-efficient landscaping integrates plant choice with placement, soil prep, and irrigation.
| Concept | Best Examples |
|---|---|
| Water capture and storage | Rainwater harvesting, greywater systems |
| Earthworks and infiltration | Swales and berms, keyline design, contour planting |
| Evaporation reduction | Mulching, drip irrigation |
| Soil health and moisture | Cover cropping, mulching |
| Demand reduction | Drought-resistant plants, water-efficient landscaping |
| Whole-landscape water distribution | Keyline design, contour planting |
| Closed-loop water cycling | Greywater systems, rainwater harvesting |
Which two methods both work with land contours but serve different primary purposes—one holding water in place, the other redistributing it across the landscape?
If you needed to reduce water loss from an existing garden bed without changing the irrigation system, which two techniques would provide the most immediate benefit, and why?
Compare and contrast rainwater harvesting and greywater systems: What are the advantages and limitations of each, and what site conditions would favor one over the other?
A design question asks you to create a water-conserving landscape for a sloped property in a semi-arid climate. Which combination of earthworks, soil management, and plant selection strategies would you integrate, and in what sequence would you implement them?
How do cover cropping and mulching both improve soil moisture retention, and what distinct additional benefits does each provide that the other doesn't?