👗Costume Design Unit 5 – Historical Fashion – 20th Century

Key Fashion Movements

• Art Deco movement of the 1920s embraced geometric shapes, bold colors, and luxurious fabrics (velvet, silk)
• Flapper style of the 1920s featured shorter hemlines, dropped waists, and looser fitting garments
  • Reflected women's increasing social and economic freedom
• Christian Dior's "New Look" of 1947 marked a return to femininity and glamour after WWII
  • Characterized by nipped-in waists, full skirts, and soft shoulders
• Mod fashion of the 1960s emphasized bold colors, graphic prints, and clean lines
  • Influenced by youth culture and the rise of the "teenager" as a distinct demographic
• Hippie and bohemian styles of the late 1960s and early 1970s favored natural fabrics, loose silhouettes, and ethnic-inspired prints
• Punk fashion of the 1970s and 1980s featured leather, studs, safety pins, and ripped clothing
  • Reflected anti-establishment attitudes and DIY aesthetics
• Power dressing of the 1980s emphasized broad shoulders, tailored suits, and bold accessories for women
  • Reflected women's increasing presence in the professional workforce

Iconic Designers and Influencers

• Coco Chanel revolutionized women's fashion with her simple, elegant designs and use of jersey fabric
  • Introduced the "little black dress" and popularized costume jewelry
• Elsa Schiaparelli was known for her surrealist designs and collaborations with artists like Salvador Dalí
• Christian Dior's "New Look" collection of 1947 set the tone for postwar fashion
• Yves Saint Laurent introduced the "Le Smoking" tuxedo suit for women in 1966
  • Pioneered ready-to-wear fashion and the concept of the modern boutique
• Mary Quant popularized the miniskirt and youthful, playful fashion in the 1960s
• Vivienne Westwood was a key figure in the punk fashion movement of the 1970s
  • Continued to push boundaries and challenge conventions throughout her career
• Giorgio Armani's deconstructed tailoring and soft, unstructured suits defined 1980s power dressing
• Gianni Versace's bold, colorful, and often provocative designs epitomized the excess and glamour of the 1980s and 1990s

Technological Advancements in Textiles

• Development of synthetic fibers like nylon and polyester in the mid-20th century
  • Allowed for the creation of stretchy, easy-care fabrics
• Spandex (also known as elastane or Lycra) invented in 1958
  • Revolutionized swimwear, activewear, and form-fitting garments
• Advances in textile printing techniques enabled more intricate and colorful patterns
  • Screen printing, heat transfer printing, and digital printing
• Improved textile treatments for water resistance, stain resistance, and wrinkle resistance
• Computerized knitting and weaving machines allowed for faster, more efficient production
• 3D printing technology began to be used for creating innovative textile structures and garments
• Smart textiles and wearable technology incorporated electronics and sensors into fabrics
  • Enabled garments to respond to stimuli, monitor health, or change color

Socio-Political Influences on Fashion

• Women's suffrage movement and increasing social freedoms influenced fashion in the early 20th century
  • Shorter hemlines, looser silhouettes, and the abandonment of restrictive corsets
• World War I and II led to fabric rationing and more practical, streamlined clothing
  • Women took on traditionally male roles, leading to the popularity of trousers and workwear
• Postwar economic boom of the 1950s encouraged consumerism and a return to feminine, glamorous styles
• Counterculture movements of the 1960s and 1970s (civil rights, anti-war, women's liberation) influenced fashion
  • Ethnic-inspired styles, unisex clothing, and a rejection of traditional gender norms
• 1980s economic prosperity and emphasis on wealth and status reflected in power dressing and conspicuous consumption
• Globalization and the internet in the 1990s and 2000s led to the rapid dissemination of fashion trends and increased cultural exchange
• Growing awareness of environmental and social issues in the fashion industry in the late 20th and early 21st centuries
  • Rise of sustainable fashion, ethical production, and diversity in representation

Evolution of Silhouettes and Styles

• Early 20th century marked by the S-curve silhouette, achieved with corsets and bustles
• 1920s saw a shift to a more boyish, androgynous silhouette with dropped waists and shorter hemlines
• 1930s introduced bias-cut dresses that skimmed the body and created a long, lean silhouette
• 1940s wartime fashion featured squared shoulders, nipped-in waists, and knee-length skirts
• Dior's "New Look" of 1947 brought back a more feminine, hourglass silhouette with full skirts and cinched waists
• 1960s characterized by short, boxy silhouettes, shift dresses, and miniskirts
• 1970s saw a return to longer hemlines, flared pants, and fitted tops
  • Bohemian and ethnic-inspired styles also popular
• 1980s power dressing emphasized broad shoulders, tailored suits, and bold accessories
• 1990s grunge and minimalism led to a more relaxed, understated silhouette
  • Baggy pants, oversized sweaters, and slip dresses

Fashion Subcultures and Countercultures

• Flappers of the 1920s embraced shorter hemlines, bobbed hair, and a more liberated lifestyle
• Zoot suit culture of the 1940s associated with African American and Latino communities
  • Characterized by oversized suits with wide lapels and high-waisted, pegged trousers
• Teddy Boys of 1950s Britain known for their Edwardian-inspired clothing and rock 'n' roll music
• Mods of the 1960s favored tailored suits, scooters, and R&B music
  • Influenced by European styles and modernist design
• Hippies of the late 1960s and early 1970s embraced natural fabrics, tie-dye, and psychedelic prints
  • Reflected anti-establishment attitudes and a rejection of consumerism
• Punk subculture of the 1970s and 1980s associated with anti-authoritarian attitudes and DIY aesthetics
  • Leather jackets, studded accessories, and ripped clothing
• Hip-hop culture of the 1980s and 1990s influenced fashion with baggy pants, oversized jackets, and sneakers
  • Reflected the music and dance styles of the subculture
• Grunge subculture of the early 1990s favored thrift store clothing, flannel shirts, and ripped jeans
  • Reflected a rejection of materialism and a embrace of alternative rock music

Global Fashion Trends and Cultural Exchange

• Western fashion has long been influenced by traditional clothing from around the world
  • Kimono-inspired dresses, African wax prints, and Indian embroidery
• Rise of Japanese fashion designers in the 1980s, such as Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto
  • Brought a minimalist, avant-garde aesthetic to the global fashion scene
• Increasing prominence of non-Western fashion weeks and designers in the late 20th and early 21st centuries
  • São Paulo Fashion Week, Lagos Fashion Week, and Arab Fashion Week
• Globalization and the internet have facilitated the rapid exchange of fashion trends and ideas
  • Social media platforms allow for instant sharing of street style and fashion inspiration
• Cultural appropriation and the need for respectful, authentic representation in fashion
  • Designers and brands increasingly collaborating with artisans and communities to create culturally sensitive collections
• Growing interest in traditional craftsmanship and sustainable, locally-sourced materials
  • Reflects a desire to preserve cultural heritage and support ethical fashion practices
• Fusion of traditional and contemporary styles, creating unique, hybrid aesthetics
  • Mixing of Western and non-Western silhouettes, fabrics, and embellishments

Legacy and Impact on Modern Design

• 20th-century fashion continues to inspire and influence contemporary designers and trends
  • Vintage and retro styles regularly revived and reinterpreted
• Iconic designs like the little black dress, trench coat, and leather jacket remain wardrobe staples
• Denim jeans, originally workwear, have become a universal and versatile fashion item
  • Constantly reinvented with new washes, cuts, and embellishments
• Sportswear and activewear have increasingly merged with high fashion
  • Athleisure trend blurs the line between functional and fashionable clothing
• Street style and subcultures continue to shape and inspire mainstream fashion
  • Designers often draw from the creativity and authenticity of grassroots fashion movements
• Technological advancements in textiles and manufacturing have opened up new possibilities for design and production
  • 3D printing, smart fabrics, and sustainable materials
• Increasing emphasis on diversity, inclusivity, and representation in the fashion industry
  • Recognition of the need for a wider range of sizes, ages, and cultural backgrounds in fashion media and on the runway
• Ongoing dialogue between fashion and other creative fields, such as art, music, and film
  • Collaborations and cross-pollination lead to innovative and interdisciplinary approaches to fashion design