3.2 Medieval European Dress
3 min read•august 9, 2024
Medieval European dress evolved dramatically from the 12th to 15th centuries. Tunics like the and gave way to elaborate outer garments such as the and , showcasing wealth and status through rich fabrics and decorations.
Headwear and accessories played a crucial role in medieval fashion. Distinctive pieces like the and for women, along with functional items like , reflected social standing and cultural norms. on clothing served as a visual language of identity and affiliation.
Outer Garments
Evolution of Medieval Tunics
Top images from around the web for Evolution of Medieval Tunics
14th Century Clothing: Petites Heures of Jean de France, Duc de Berry View original
Is this image relevant?
Tunic - Wikipedia View original
Is this image relevant?
English medieval clothing - Wikipedia View original
Is this image relevant?
14th Century Clothing: Petites Heures of Jean de France, Duc de Berry View original
Is this image relevant?
Tunic - Wikipedia View original
Is this image relevant?
1 of 3
Top images from around the web for Evolution of Medieval Tunics
14th Century Clothing: Petites Heures of Jean de France, Duc de Berry View original
Is this image relevant?
Tunic - Wikipedia View original
Is this image relevant?
English medieval clothing - Wikipedia View original
Is this image relevant?
14th Century Clothing: Petites Heures of Jean de France, Duc de Berry View original
Is this image relevant?
Tunic - Wikipedia View original
Is this image relevant?
1 of 3
- Bliaut emerged as a long, loose-fitting tunic worn by both men and women in the
- Featured wide sleeves and a fitted bodice
- Often made of rich fabrics like or fine
- Decorated with or jewels for
- Cotehardie developed in the as a close-fitting garment
- Characterized by its buttoned front and long, tight sleeves
- Worn by both sexes but more commonly associated with men's fashion
- Extended from shoulders to hips or knees, showcasing the wearer's figure
Elaborate Outer Layers
- Houppelande introduced in the late 14th century as a voluminous outer garment
- Distinctive for its full, flaring sleeves and high collar
- Often fur-lined and made of luxurious fabrics (, )
- Length varied from knee to floor-length, depending on the wearer's status
- Surcoat evolved from a simple sleeveless garment worn over armor
- Transformed into a fashionable item for both men and women by the 13th century
- Often adorned with heraldic designs or family crests
- Women's surcoats sometimes featured side openings to display the underlying dress
- originated as a short, sleeveless garment worn by knights over armor
- Later adopted by civilians as a fashionable outer layer
- Commonly displayed heraldic symbols or occupational insignia
- Became associated with heralds and messengers in later medieval periods
Headwear and Accessories
Distinctive Headpieces
- Hennin emerged as a conical or steeple-shaped headdress for women in the
- Often adorned with a flowing veil or drapery
- Height and elaborateness indicated the wearer's social status
- Variations included the butterfly hennin with wing-like protrusions
- Wimple served as a cloth head-covering for women, covering the neck and sides of the face
- Originated as a sign of modesty and piety
- Worn by both religious women and lay noblewomen
- Often combined with a veil or other headdresses for added sophistication
Functional Accessories and Symbolism
- Chausses functioned as leg coverings, similar to modern-day stockings or leggings
- Made of wool, linen, or silk depending on the wearer's status
- Attached to the braies (undergarments) with laces called points
- Evolved into joined hose in the late medieval period
- Heraldry played a crucial role in medieval fashion and identification
- Incorporated into clothing, shields, and banners
- Utilized specific colors, patterns, and symbols to represent families or individuals
- Served as a visual language of social and political affiliations
Societal Influences
Regulation and Control of Fashion
- enacted to regulate clothing based on social class and wealth
- Restricted the use of certain fabrics, colors, and styles to specific ranks
- Aimed to maintain social hierarchies and prevent excessive spending
- Often dictated the types of furs, jewels, and textiles allowed for each class
- exerted significant influence over medieval fashion production and trade
- Organized craftsmen into specialized groups (weavers, tailors, embroiderers)
- Controlled quality standards and pricing of textile goods
- Regulated apprenticeship systems, ensuring the transmission of skills and techniques
- Played a role in developing and maintaining local fashion traditions
Economic and Cultural Factors
- Rise of urban centers and international trade influenced fashion trends
- Increased availability of exotic fabrics and dyes (silk from China, cotton from India)
- Cultural exchanges led to the adoption of foreign styles and techniques
- Religious beliefs and practices shaped clothing choices
- Monastic orders adhered to specific dress codes
- Pilgrimage and crusades introduced new fashion elements from the East
- Technological advancements in textile production impacted clothing styles
- Introduction of the horizontal loom allowed for wider fabrics
- Development of new weaving techniques created more intricate patterns and textures
Key Terms to Review (28)
12th century: The 12th century was a period of significant cultural, political, and economic transformation in Europe, marking the transition from the early Middle Ages to the High Middle Ages. This century saw the rise of feudalism, the growth of towns and trade, and advancements in art and architecture, including the Romanesque style that paved the way for Gothic architecture later on.
14th century: The 14th century was a pivotal period in European history, marked by significant cultural, social, and economic changes. This century saw the evolution of medieval dress, influenced by events such as the Black Death and the rise of the merchant class, which altered fashion and material culture. The styles from this era laid the groundwork for the subsequent Renaissance and highlighted the transition in societal norms and values.
15th century: The 15th century, spanning from the year 1401 to 1500, marks a significant period of transition in European history characterized by the late Medieval era and the beginning of the Renaissance. This century saw profound changes in art, culture, and dress, particularly in how garments were constructed and adorned, reflecting social status and evolving aesthetics in medieval European dress.
Bliaut: The bliaut is a medieval garment characterized by its fitted bodice and flared skirt, typically worn by both men and women during the 12th to 14th centuries in Europe. This garment signifies a transition in fashion, reflecting changes in social status and identity through its elaborate construction and embellishments, often made from luxurious fabrics.
Brocade: Brocade is a luxurious fabric, often characterized by its intricate patterns and raised designs created through weaving techniques, typically incorporating gold or silver threads. This opulent textile has been historically significant in fashion, especially during periods like the Renaissance and Baroque, where it was favored for formal garments and ceremonial attire due to its rich appearance and ability to convey wealth and status.
Byzantine influence: Byzantine influence refers to the impact of the Byzantine Empire's art, culture, and architectural styles on various regions, especially during the medieval period. This influence can be seen in the adoption of intricate designs, vibrant colors, and luxurious fabrics in clothing and accessories worn throughout medieval Europe, showcasing a blend of sophistication and opulence.
Chausses: Chausses were a type of fitted leg garment worn in medieval Europe, primarily from the 12th to the 15th centuries. They were typically made of wool or linen and designed to cover the legs, often extending from the waist down to the ankles or feet. This garment was an essential part of both men’s and women’s attire, reflecting the evolving fashion trends and social status during the medieval period.
Cincture: A cincture is a type of belt or cord used to fasten garments, particularly in the context of medieval European dress. It serves both a functional and decorative purpose, often accentuating the waist and providing support for draped fabrics. The cincture can also reflect social status and fashion trends, being made from various materials such as wool, silk, or leather, and sometimes adorned with intricate designs or embellishments.
Cotehardie: The cotehardie is a fitted garment worn in the late medieval period, characterized by its long sleeves and a flared skirt. This style of dress was popular among both men and women during the 14th and 15th centuries and often featured decorative elements like buttons and embroidery. It marked a significant shift in medieval fashion, highlighting a more tailored silhouette that showcased the wearer's body shape.
Courtly fashion: Courtly fashion refers to the elaborate and sophisticated styles of clothing that were worn by the nobility and royal courts in medieval Europe, particularly during the late Middle Ages. This fashion was characterized by its opulence, intricate designs, and the use of luxurious materials, reflecting the social status and wealth of the wearers. As a result, courtly fashion not only showcased personal style but also played a crucial role in displaying power, influence, and cultural identity within noble circles.
Eleanor of Aquitaine: Eleanor of Aquitaine was a powerful and influential queen consort of France and England in the 12th century. She played a pivotal role in the political and cultural landscape of medieval Europe, particularly through her marriage to King Henry II of England and her involvement in the Crusades. Eleanor's patronage of the arts and her impact on fashion and dress during this time significantly shaped the identity and representation of royalty in medieval European society.
Embroidery: Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric using needle and thread or yarn to create intricate designs, patterns, or images. This craft has been used throughout history to enhance textiles, adding richness and detail to garments and accessories. Embroidery serves not only as an embellishment but also reflects cultural significance and artistic expression in various historical styles, making it essential in costume design.
Gothic style: Gothic style refers to a distinctive artistic and architectural movement that originated in 12th-century France and flourished throughout medieval Europe, characterized by its pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and flying buttresses. In the context of dress, gothic style manifests through elaborate costumes that often feature dramatic silhouettes, intricate detailing, and a play of light and shadow that reflects the overall aesthetic of the period. This style embodies themes of spirituality and mystique, often drawing inspiration from medieval art and literature.
Guilds: Guilds were associations of artisans and merchants in medieval Europe that played a crucial role in the regulation of trade, production, and craftsmanship. These organizations established standards for quality, training, and pricing within specific industries, fostering a sense of community and protection among their members. Guilds also had significant influence on local economies and social structures, shaping the landscape of medieval European dress through their control over textile production and fashion trends.
Hennin: The hennin is a distinctive headdress worn by women in the late medieval period, particularly in the 15th century. Often characterized by its tall, conical shape, the hennin was typically made of fabric and decorated with materials like silk or jewels, symbolizing wealth and status. This iconic accessory was frequently paired with flowing gowns and served as a focal point in medieval fashion, representing both beauty and femininity.
Heraldry: Heraldry is the study and design of coats of arms and heraldic symbols, which were used in medieval Europe to identify individuals, families, and institutions. These visual symbols often included emblems, colors, and patterns that conveyed information about lineage, status, and allegiance. In the context of medieval European dress, heraldry was significant as it influenced the decorative elements of garments, showcasing noble heritage and social rank.
Houppelande: The houppelande is a long, flowing robe or gown that was popular in late medieval Europe, characterized by its voluminous sleeves and high collar. Often made from luxurious fabrics, the houppelande was worn by both men and women and symbolized status and wealth during the period. Its design evolved over time, reflecting changes in fashion and social norms within medieval society.
Islamic Textiles: Islamic textiles refer to a diverse range of fabrics and decorative textiles produced in Islamic cultures, characterized by intricate patterns, vibrant colors, and elaborate designs. These textiles often served both functional and ceremonial purposes, reflecting the artistic and cultural exchanges within the vast Islamic world during medieval times, particularly influencing medieval European dress through trade and cultural interactions.
Nobility: Nobility refers to a social class characterized by its privileges, titles, and hereditary status, often holding significant power and influence within a society. In medieval Europe, the nobility played a crucial role in the social hierarchy, with members often serving as landowners, military leaders, and advisors to monarchs. Their status was marked by distinctive clothing and accessories that indicated their rank and wealth, impacting fashion trends and societal norms of the time.
Peasantry: Peasantry refers to the class of rural, agrarian laborers who worked the land and formed the backbone of medieval European society. They were primarily involved in agriculture, engaging in farming and tending to livestock, and their lifestyle was heavily influenced by feudal obligations, local customs, and economic conditions. Peasants often lived in simple homes and wore practical clothing suited for their labor-intensive lives, which varied greatly based on region and social standing.
Richard the Lionheart: Richard the Lionheart, also known as Richard I of England, was a medieval king who reigned from 1189 to 1199 and is famed for his role in the Third Crusade. His leadership and military prowess during this significant period showcased not only his personal valor but also highlighted the importance of royal figures in shaping medieval European dress, especially through their representation in armor, regal garments, and symbols of chivalry.
Silk: Silk is a natural protein fiber produced by silkworms, specifically the larvae of the moth Bombyx mori. It has been prized for its luxurious texture, luster, and drape, making it a popular choice for high-quality garments and decorative textiles throughout history. The unique properties of silk have influenced fashion trends and styles across different eras, showcasing its versatility in various clothing designs and cultural expressions.
Sumptuary Laws: Sumptuary laws were regulations established in various societies to dictate what individuals could wear, eat, and how they could spend their money based on their social class and status. These laws aimed to reinforce social hierarchies and control the behavior of individuals, particularly during the Medieval period in Europe, where clothing styles became a symbol of wealth and nobility.
Surcoat: A surcoat is a loose-fitting outer garment worn over armor during the medieval period, often made of fabric and typically adorned with heraldic symbols. It served both practical and symbolic purposes, protecting the wearer from the elements and showcasing their identity or allegiance, particularly in battle or tournaments.
Tabard: A tabard is a loose-fitting garment that originated in medieval Europe, typically worn over armor or as part of a heraldic display. It often features an open front and is designed to be worn by knights and nobles, showcasing their coat of arms or insignia. This garment represents not only practicality in battle but also a means of identifying individuals and their allegiances during the medieval period.
Velvet: Velvet is a soft, luxurious fabric with a distinctive texture created by weaving two layers of fabric together and cutting the fibers to create a plush surface. This fabric has been historically associated with wealth and nobility, making it a popular choice in various eras, including the Renaissance, Victorian, and Medieval periods. Its rich appearance and feel have made it an essential material for garments, upholstery, and decorative purposes throughout history.
Wimple: A wimple is a type of head covering worn by women in medieval Europe, characterized by its draped fabric that frames the face and often extends down the neck. This garment was primarily used to signify modesty and social status, particularly among married women and nuns. The wimple played an essential role in the fashion of the time, reflecting the cultural values of femininity, piety, and decorum during the medieval period.
Wool: Wool is a natural fiber obtained from the fleece of sheep and other animals, prized for its warmth, elasticity, and versatility. It plays a crucial role in textile production and has been historically significant in clothing across various cultures due to its insulating properties, breathability, and ability to be dyed easily, which made it ideal for garments ranging from everyday wear to elaborate costumes.